Friday, March 16, 2012

Daintree (Forest and Sea)



Ever since I have heard of Cassowaries I have wanted to see one. Cassowaries are giant flightless birds that have inhabited Australia since it was part of Gondwana, the Southern Supercontinent superseding Australia's independence from any mainland. They are nearly the size of Ostriches and look as prehistoric as they are. They have huge Velociraptor-like claws and a crest that looks like it could have been stolen from the armor of a Stegosaurus. They look fierce enough that they could have beaten up on dinosaurs and very well could have if  their time on earth had overlapped with their featherless ancestors. Unfortunately they were less prepared for the animal whose existence does overlap with theirs: Homo sapiens. Extensive logging of the lowland rainforests have led to substantial declines in the Cassowary's population. Furthermore, Cassowaries are a keystone species due to their role as a seed disperser of large fruit. There are numerous trees and plants whose seeds require passage through the Cassowary's digestive system in order to germinate It is not impossible for these trees to reproduce in the absence of Cassowaries, but the rate of successful germination does drop significantly. Thus there has been a huge amount of effort to restore their population in recent years for the sake of their intrinsic importance as well as for the sake of the Wet Tropics lowland rainforests. You can see why I was so anxious to see one.

The Daintree is one of the best places to see a wild Cassowary. Just last year, a group of SFS students saw a father with three chicks (it is the male that endures the grueling task of parenting). And so optimistically prepared myself to see one. Before arriving at our campground we stopped at a beautiful type 1A forest where we hiked, walked the suspension bridge and then swam and enjoyed smoko (Aussie slang for tea/snack time) by the stream. 















Metallic Starlings
From here we completed our journey to the Crocodylus lodge (our Daintree headquarters) where we unpacked and hung out until dinner. Nothing much happened after dinner so I'll just skip to the following day. We started it off by going on a trip to the Daintree Discovery Centre where we walked up the canopy tower for a better view of the reserve. It was here that I saw a flock of Metallic Starlings that had built elaborate nests that hung from branches. In the information centre, they had several Jungle Carpet Pythons, a Boyd's Forest Dragon and life-size models of Cassowaries. And on the Cassowary Circuit we saw a Cassowary Satin-Ash and a 
Cassowary Plum, but no real-life Cassowaries.

After the Discovery Centre we finally got to see our Tropical Field Ecology Professor's infamous Daintree Jungle House. Almost every lecture she mentions some spectacular animal sighting she'd seen from her veranda, so we were anxious to finally get to see what she was referring to. We were greeted by her husband who does a lot of research on Wild boars, an invasive species that has caused damage to rainforests. He gave us a tour and showed us how they managed to live sustainably by treating and using rainwater, using a compostable toilet and installing a solar cell above the forest canopy. When I return home I may suggest installing a solar cell at our house above the pine trees, since my dad is always complaining that the shade inhibits the power-generating ability of our attic and greenhouse and threatens to chop the heads off of them. I always retort by saying the decreased sequestration rates in the pines would defeat the attempt to reduce our carbon footprint by increasing light penetration to our greenhouse, though I'm not exactly sure how one would go about proving that.

After exploring our professor's awesome house, we hopped in the vans and arrived at the Palm forest, which was by far my favorite forest type of the ones we have seen so far. The palms were as large as boulders, four or more feet across. I truly felt like I was experiencing the world of the dinosaurs as I traipsed my way under the massive fronds. It was by far my favorite of all the forests we have seen. 






After the Palm Forest we picnicked at Cape Tribulation, which as publicized is where the Forest meets the Ocean. It was beautiful to behold. The stereotypical paradise of white sand and coconut trees was not an inaccurate description of the beach. There was even a nearby forested Island that sat tantalizingly close to our beach, but unfortunately we were banned from swimming due to the risk of Jellies. Nonetheless we had fun just wandering about, munching on coconut and playing beach rugby.















Our last destination of the day was the mangrove swamp. Subject to constant flooding, the trees were designed for inundation. When tropical cyclones hit, the water level can rise several feet. The complex root systems of the trees allowed for stability and greater Oxygen uptake during these seasonal periods of inundation. So we saw some unique landscapes, but alas, still no Cassowaries.





Last day. I'm becoming angsty about losing my opportunity to see a Cassowary. In desperation, I go on an early morning hike to see if I cannot find one. I do not get too far down the trail before I see something very large running through the trees. I then see something much smaller running not too far away from it. This is where my curiosity and excitement outweigh my common sense and I sprint towards what I perceived to be a Cassowary with at least one chick. I catch up to the chick only to find that it is just an Orange-footed Scrubfowl and by the time I realize this, the larger animal had bolted. I continue calmly down the trail and notice a multitude of boar tracks. It is this observation that forces me to accept the fact that the large animal I witnessed was most likely a Wild Boar and not a Cassowary. I continue around the loop anyway, which turned out to be much longer than I expected. I finally make it back to camp, disappointed and frustrated. I shove down my breakfast since everyone else had eaten by that point.
My frustration did not last long because we were scheduled to go on a river cruise to see one of the coolest reptiles on the face of the Earth: the Saltwater Crocodile. We all filtered into a windowless cruiser and drifted out into saline water in pursuit of these ancient beasts. Right away we saw a few small two to three-year old crocs on a bank. As we went we were told us to look for newborns and we did see a few swimming about in the mangroves. This was all fine and well, but I wanted to see one that had the potential to rip my arm off if I got too close. Our tour guide warned us that Liz (the mother of the newborns) usually stayed close to them, but he hadn't seen her over the past few days. Thinking that this was just my luck, my excitement level dropped for awhile until a tour guide from another boat told us that he had just seen Liz on the shore close by, and indeed she was still there when we got there. A remarkable 8-foot-long beast, she was amazing to view. Though tolerant of us being there, I could tell that she could easily take down any one of us if given the chance. Crocodiles, I am convinced, are of the toughest species in the world. I still don't know how Steve Irwin, or anyone for that matter ever could have managed to wrestle such a magnificent creature.











No comments:

Post a Comment